London Collections: Men SS16 concluded on Monday, and while the fashion set are already dusting off their lapels in Florence, it’s time to assess the trends that emerged this week that we’re likely to be seeing more of.
1. Wide-leg trousers
If this already visible trend needed any confirmation it was received in droves during London Collections: Men both on the runway on the legs of attendees. We’ve been in thrall to the skinny trouser for a decade or so but suddenly voluminous trousers have irresistible appeal. Possibly because it looks so new to eyes trained to seek out the skinniest strides, or because they can be so damn comfortable, the wide-leg trouser is having a moment. Remember that you have options: a flared jean or tailored trouser, a generously pleated pair of bags or the slightly cropped, usually black trousers beloved of stylists; whichever option you choose, take pride in having the extra room to move in.
2. Tailored denim
When the highest-end designers such as J.W. Anderson and Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen are using denim on the runway, it’s time to reassess the fabric. Of course, denim never really goes away, but equally it has rarely reached such heights of avant-garde status. From Sarah Burton’s denim mariner-themed suits, featuring ‘mended’ details and seafaring motifs, to Craig Green’s kimono-belted double denim and J.W Anderson’s futuristic Ziggy Stardust meets Zen master fantasies, expect to see denim in unexpected places, often tailored, draped and pleated almost beyond recognition. Alternatively, invest in a pair of E.Tautz super-wide-leg raw denim field trousers and hit two trends at once.
3. Romance and luxury
A tricky one, this. But there was definitely an air of romance about many of the shows, from James Long’s exploration of the elegant decay of Regency Brighton in his fantasy knits and robes to the lace shirts at Burberry Prorsum and even the wide velvet pants at Agi & Sam. It signifies a return to foppish detail and tactile luxury after seasons of minimal black sportswear. But it’s not a free for all; the lace shirts at Burberry seemed almost low key when worn under suits with a tie, and the low-profile white sneaker is a convenient shortcut to downplay all that velvet, lace and flapping trouser leg.
Sibling’s riotous spree through the locker room of the American Jock was the most obvious reassessment of Americana at the shows, but there were other, less iconic versions too. Stuart Vevers’ transformation of the American luxury brand Coach has given him scope to explore some of the less explored corners of the American style lexicon, for SS16 he celebrated late ‘60s psychedelia in vivid, swirling colour with a grounding accent of ‘90s downtown New York in the nonchalant, no-fuss skatewear shapes and footwear.
5. The graphic print T-shirt
Until very recently, minimal has been a term of ultimate praise in menswear. After the onslaught of all-over print a few seasons ago, flat planes of black, white and grey were the equivalent of a style detox. But print is edging its way back in and the graphic T-shirt is one of the first signs of its re-emergence. While you may have got used to investing in high-thread count T-shirts that only you really appreciate the value of, the graphic T-shirt is making a return. Always one of the easiest ways of making a statement with minimal effort, it may still not be time to dig out your sports logo or precious band T-shirts just yet, but as a conveniently flat surface, designers are making use of the T-shirt to express themselves. This season, Patrick Grant’s boxy T-shirts with mid-century modern graphics were the most covetable, though J.W. Anderson’s now sold out landscape print T’s were a popular option for attendees.