Dress codes don’t come up often in modern life — so when an invitation requests one, it can strike fear into even the most sartorially savvy. It’s also worth brushing up on everyday unspoken dress codes like business dress or smart casual, because confusion over what is and isn’t acceptable is surprisingly common.
Your appearance matters. Turning up underdressed can read as rude or disrespectful, even when you mean no offence. Get it right every time with the LDNfashion guide to dress codes for men.
The dress code hierarchy: from formal to relaxed
Think of dress codes as a sliding scale. At the top sits white tie — the most formal option you’ll ever encounter. At the other end, smart casual gives you the most freedom. Here’s what each level actually means.
White Tie
A white tie invitation is a rare honour — this sits at the very top of the dress code pecking order.
You must wear a white bow tie (never black), a white wing-collar shirt, and optionally a white waistcoat. Your trousers and tailcoat — not a standard evening jacket — should be black. Buff up your patent leather shoes and you have the essentials covered.
Feeling confident? Accessorise with a top hat, pocket watch (remove your wristwatch), white lapel flower, white leather gloves, or a cane.
Morning Dress
Morning dress is the most formal daytime attire. You’ll spot it on grooms at weddings or at Royal Ascot.
A morning coat looks similar to a tailcoat — make sure you pick the right one. Choose black or grey, with grey trousers and a grey waistcoat. Swap the wing-collar shirt for a white shirt with a turn-down collar, and add a tie in any colour. Finish with a top hat and polished black shoes.
Black Tie
Black tie is familiar to most men, but easy faux-pas still catch people out.
A dinner jacket — what Americans call a tuxedo jacket — is traditionally single-breasted with one button. Wear it open with a cummerbund covering the waistband. A double-breasted version is also acceptable; button it up to cover the waistband. Look for a peaked lapel or shawl collar.
Complete the look with a white turn-down collar shirt, black trousers, a black tie or bow tie, cufflinks, and polished Oxford shoes.
Cocktail
Cocktail dress codes typically call for women to wear cocktail dresses — but what does that mean for men?
There are no strict rules, but a suit is the right call. Get creative: try high-shine fabrics, or lean into current trends like brocade or velvet. This is your chance to be modern and stylish. Browse our men’s suits edit for inspiration.
Business Dress
You’ll likely encounter business dress at a job interview or client meeting.
Wear a notch-lapel jacket with matching trousers, a shirt, tie, and lace-up shoes. Coloured shirts and ties are acceptable. Stick to widely respected suit colours: black, grey, or navy.
Read the room on how much colour or pattern to add. The further you stray from convention, the less formal — and potentially more junior — you’ll appear.
Business Casual
Business casual is everyday office attire. Ties and jackets are optional, but do wear a button-up, turn-down collar shirt.
Any shoes except trainers or sandals work fine. Colour and pattern are welcome.
Smart Casual
Smart casual is the dress code that trips people up most — even more than black tie. There are no strict rules; it’s down to your judgement.
Jeans usually work here, alongside more relaxed tops like polo shirts. A button-down shirt is always a safe and stylish option.
Do your research, understand the crowd, and remember: if in doubt, it’s better to be overdressed than underdressed. For outfit ideas that nail the balance, visit our smart casual style guide.
