Cashmere has long been synonymous with luxury. It’s warm, soft and surprisingly durable, and a well-made jumper can last for decades. But how much do you really know about where your favourite knitwear comes from, or how to look after it?
Before you invest in a scarf or curl up in a luxury jumper, read our complete cashmere guide. We explain how to judge quality, how to make it last and whether it can be ethical. We also pick the best brands to buy from and answer the questions readers ask us most.
What is cashmere?
Cashmere is a natural fibre that comes from the coats of particular breeds of goat. It grows as a soft under-layer close to the skin, beneath the goat’s coarser outer hair.
Goats grow this downy layer in winter to protect themselves from extreme cold. That’s why the fibre doesn’t come from just any goat. Herders raise the breeds that produce it in the high mountains of China, Mongolia, Iran, Afghanistan and Nepal, where winter temperatures fall far below freezing.
In spring, the goats moult their winter coats. Herders then comb out the fine fibres, which mills clean and spin into yarn.
The name comes from Kashmir, the Himalayan region where weavers first made fine wool shawls centuries ago. Those shawls became fashionable in Europe around 1800. Scotland went on to become one of the world’s great centres of luxury knitting and weaving, and it still holds that reputation today.
Why is cashmere so expensive?
Producing this luxury yarn requires specific breeds of goat, and those goats only produce the fibre once a year.
Yields are tiny. A single goat produces roughly 150–200g of usable fibre a year. It can take the annual output of four or five goats to make one jumper. A sheep, by comparison, produces around 3kg of wool a year.
Processing is slow, too. Mills wash the raw fleece repeatedly, then “dehair” it to separate the fine down from coarse hair, grease and dirt. Only then can they dye the fibres, spin them into yarn and knit or weave the finished garment.
All of this means the real thing will never be truly cheap. If a 100% cashmere jumper costs far less than you’d expect, ask where the savings came from. Shorter, coarser fibres, a thin one-ply yarn or a looser knit are the usual culprits.
Why is cashmere better than wool?
Cashmere is noticeably warmer than sheep’s wool for its weight, and much softer to the touch. Wool can feel itchy against the skin, but cashmere’s finer, smoother fibres don’t. It also contains far less lanolin, the natural grease in sheep’s wool that irritates some people’s skin.
Because its fibres are so much finer than wool, they make a lighter fabric that drapes beautifully. You get the warmth of a chunky wool jumper without the bulk. That makes it ideal for layering under a coat or tailoring.
That said, it isn’t always the better choice. Fine merino wool costs less, wears harder and is easier to wash. It’s a sensible option for everyday knitwear that will see a lot of use.
Are there different grades of cashmere?
Yes. The industry commonly grades it from A to C, according to the length and fineness of its fibres.
Grade A is the highest quality. It has the longest, finest fibres, at around 14–15.5 microns thick. For comparison, a human hair measures roughly 50–100 microns.
Grade B uses slightly thicker fibres, around 16–19 microns, and isn’t quite as soft.
Grade C is the lowest quality and the cheapest. Its fibres can reach 20 microns or more. That’s coarser than the 19-micron limit many standards use to define true cashmere.
The region and the production process also affect the finished quality. Fibre length matters as much as fineness. Longer fibres make a stronger, smoother yarn that pills less and keeps its shape for longer.
How to tell good-quality cashmere
Most brands don’t print the grade on the label, so you’ll often need to judge quality for yourself. Here’s what to look for.
Check the label. Look for 100% cashmere. Blends with wool, silk or synthetics can be perfectly nice, but they won’t feel or wear the same. Some “cashmere-feel” products contain no cashmere at all.
Look at the ply. Ply refers to the number of strands twisted together to make the yarn. Two-ply yarn is thicker, warmer and more durable than one-ply, and it’s the standard for a good jumper. Save one-ply for lightweight scarves and wraps.
Hold it up to the light. A dense, tight knit lets very little light through. A loose, see-through knit uses less yarn and is more likely to lose its shape.
Stretch it gently. Pull a small section of the fabric and let go. Good cashmere springs back into shape; poor-quality cashmere stays stretched.
Feel, but don’t trust softness alone. A very fluffy jumper in the shop can be a warning sign. Some makers heavily brush lower-grade fibres or add softeners so they feel luxurious at first. These pieces tend to pill quickly after a wash. A good one feels soft and smooth, and gets softer with wear.
Does high-quality cashmere pill?
Yes, it can. This is a delicate fibre, so even the best pieces can pill where they rub, such as under the arms or at the cuffs. Longer fibres pill less, so higher grades hold up better. Most pilling settles down after the first few wears and washes, and a fine-toothed knitwear comb will remove any bobbles that do form.
Is cashmere cruel to goats?
It doesn’t have to be. Goats shed their undercoat naturally each spring, so herders can collect the fibre without harming the animals.
However, in some regions herders now shear goats too early, sometimes while the weather is still cold. This leaves the animals without their protective coat.
Rising demand and pressure to cut costs have also taken an environmental toll. In parts of Mongolia and China, herders have built up ever-larger flocks. The result is overgrazing and degraded grasslands.
In response, some brands have pledged to stop using “virgin” cashmere and switch to recycled fibre. ASOS went further and stopped selling it altogether.
Other brands now buy ethically sourced fibre from well-managed herds. Look out for certifications such as the Good Cashmere Standard or the Sustainable Fibre Alliance when you shop. Don’t be afraid to ask a brand where its yarn comes from, either. The best ones will happily tell you.
Buying less but better is one of the most sustainable choices you can make. It’s the same logic as a waxed Barbour jacket: buy once and keep it for decades. A jumper you wear for 15 years has a far smaller footprint than a cheap one you replace after a season.
How to care for cashmere
Don’t wash your knitwear too often. Wear a piece a few times between washes and let it air out in between. The fibre naturally resists odours, so a night over the back of a chair is often all it needs.
When you do wash it, use cold or lukewarm water and a gentle wool detergent such as Woolite. Wash by hand and skip the fabric conditioner. Turn the garment inside out first, and avoid rubbing or scrubbing, which encourages pilling.
Don’t wring it out. Instead, roll it in a towel and press gently to remove excess water. Then reshape it and leave it to dry flat, away from direct heat and sunlight.
Never tumble dry it. Avoid hanging it while wet, too, as the weight of the water will stretch it out of shape.
Store knitwear folded rather than hung, so it doesn’t stretch at the shoulders. Clean it before you put it away for the season, because dirt and body oils attract moths. Cedar blocks or lavender sachets in your drawer will help keep them at bay. For long-term storage, a breathable cotton garment bag works better than plastic.
Where to buy cashmere
From heritage Scottish mills to ethically minded newcomers, these are the brands we trust for knitwear that’s worth the investment.
1. Johnstons of Elgin
Johnstons of Elgin has made cloth in Scotland since 1797. It’s one of the last vertically integrated mills in the country, taking the fibre from raw material to finished garment in its own mills. That level of control shows in the quality. Its scarves and throws are among the best you can buy, and its knitwear is classic and built to last. If you want a scarf that will still look good in 20 years, start here.
2. N.Peal
N.Peal opened its first shop in London’s Burlington Arcade in 1936 and has been a byword for luxury knitwear ever since. The brand pairs a rich colour palette and fashion-forward cuts with timeless classics. Its collections for men and women run from fine-gauge crew necks to chunky cable knits. It’s a great choice if you want knitwear that feels contemporary rather than country. The brand also holds occasional London sales, so keep an eye on our sample sales listings.
3. Brora
Victoria Stewart launched Brora in 1993 to celebrate British craftsmanship, and Scottish mills still knit much of its collection. The look is quintessentially British: elegant, colourful and quietly luxurious. Expect signature stripes and Fair Isle patterns alongside wardrobe staples. Brora also offers a cashmere repair service, so you can mend your favourite pieces rather than replace them.
4. Pringle of Scotland
Pringle of Scotland began in the Borders town of Hawick in 1815. The brand helped popularise both the twinset and the argyle pattern. Today it blends that heritage with modern design, from statement knitwear to timeless jumpers and cardigans. Look out for its classic argyle pieces if you want something with real history behind it.
5. Naadam
Naadam sources its cashmere directly from herders in Mongolia. Cutting out the middlemen lets the brand pay herders more while keeping prices accessible. The result is high-quality knitwear for less than most heritage brands charge, in relaxed shapes that are easy to wear every day. It’s a strong pick if transparency about sourcing matters to you.
6. ASKET
Swedish label ASKET does the opposite of fast fashion. It sells one permanent collection of timeless essentials, made in Europe from natural fibres, and offers repairs and take-back. Its sweater for men and women follows the same thinking. It’s a clean, versatile crew neck that you’ll wear for years rather than replace each season.
7. COS
COS is the go-to for minimalist, design-led knitwear at a mid-range price. Expect clean lines, relaxed fits and a muted, grown-up palette that slots easily into a capsule wardrobe. The collection usually covers crew necks, cardigans, vests and accessories for men and women. New styles arrive each season, so it’s worth checking back regularly.
8. Marks & Spencer
Marks & Spencer is one of the most reliable places on the high street to buy pure cashmere. Its women’s jumpers come in classic shapes and seasonal colours, at prices that suit everyday wear. Easy in-store returns also make it a low-risk way to find your fit before you invest in a pricier piece.
9. Uniqlo
For an affordable first step into luxury knitwear, Uniqlo is hard to beat. Its 100% cashmere crew necks, V-necks and cardigans come in a wide range of colours. They cost a fraction of what luxury labels charge. The knit is finer and lighter than you’ll get from heritage brands, so don’t expect the same longevity. As an entry-level jumper, though, it offers excellent value.
10. Loro Piana
If you want the very best and budget is no object, Loro Piana is the benchmark of quiet luxury. The Italian house, founded in 1924, sources exceptionally fine fibres. These include baby cashmere from the undercoat of young goats, which is even softer than the standard fibre. Its knitwear is understated, impeccable and priced accordingly. This is knitwear as a true investment.
Cashmere FAQs
Is cashmere worth the money?
A good piece is worth it if you look after it. A quality jumper can last for many years and often gets softer with age, so the cost per wear works out well. Very cheap versions are a different story. They tend to pill, thin and lose their shape quickly, so you may replace them sooner than a wool alternative.
How can I tell if cashmere is real?
Start with the label, which should state the fibre content. The genuine article feels soft but not slippery or synthetic. It warms up quickly in your hands and has a slightly matte finish rather than a shine. Buying from a reputable brand or retailer is the simplest way to be sure.
What’s the difference between one-ply and two-ply cashmere?
Ply is the number of yarn strands twisted together. Two-ply yarn is thicker, warmer and more durable, which makes it the better choice for jumpers and cardigans. One-ply is lighter and more delicate, so it suits scarves, wraps and fine layering pieces.
Can you put cashmere in the washing machine?
Some pieces are machine washable, but always check the care label first. If the label allows it, use the wool or hand-wash cycle at 30°C or below with a wool detergent. Put the garment in a mesh laundry bag and choose a low spin. If in doubt, hand washing is always the safer option.
Does cashmere shrink?
Yes, if it meets heat and agitation. Hot water, vigorous rubbing and tumble drying can all make the fibre felt and shrink. You usually can’t undo the damage. Stick to cool water and gentle handling, and always dry it flat.
Why is my new cashmere jumper shedding?
A little shedding and light pilling is normal with new knitwear, as loose fibres work their way out of the yarn. It usually settles down after the first few wears and washes. If a jumper keeps shedding heavily, the maker may have used shorter, lower-grade fibres.
Can I wear cashmere if wool makes me itch?
Many people who find wool itchy can wear this fibre comfortably. Its fibres are much finer and smoother, and it contains far less lanolin. If you have a known wool allergy, though, try a piece on before you buy.
Can you wear cashmere in summer?
Yes. It breathes and helps regulate temperature. A lightweight, fine-knit piece works well on cool summer evenings or in air-conditioned offices. Look for one-ply knits, short sleeves or cashmere-silk blends for warmer weather.
What is recycled cashmere?
Recycled cashmere comes from pre-loved garments or factory offcuts, which mills break down into fibre and spin into new yarn. It has a much lower environmental impact than virgin fibre. Recycling shortens the fibres, so brands often blend it with other yarns for strength. As a result, it may feel slightly less soft.
How do I stop moths eating my cashmere?
Dirt, sweat and body oils attract moths, so always clean your knitwear before you store it. Keep it in a clean, dry drawer or a breathable garment bag, and add cedar or lavender as a natural deterrent. Take your knitwear out and shake it regularly, too, since moths prefer undisturbed spaces.
